When it comes to historical fashion, many people may find themselves confused between various types of undergarments and dress accessories. Two such items that often leave people scratching their heads are the crinoline and the farthingale. While both serve a similar function, they are not interchangeable, and there are distinct differences between the two.
So, what exactly is the difference between a crinoline and a farthingale? Well, first of all, it’s important to understand that both of these items are worn underneath dresses and skirts to give them volume and maintain a particular shape. However, a farthingale is typically a hoop skirt with a conical shape and is worn underneath a full skirt. On the other hand, a crinoline is a cage-like structure made of hoops or crinoline wire and is worn under dresses with a bell-shaped silhouette.
While both the crinoline and the farthingale were popular during the 19th century, the former would become the more ubiquitous and recognizable of the two. Indeed, the crinoline helped define the fashion of the Victorian era and can often be seen in period films and TV shows. Understanding the difference between these two unique fashion accessories can give one a greater appreciation for the intricacy and detail that went into fashion during the Victorian era.
Historical Use of Crinolines
Crinolines were a popular fashion item throughout the mid-19th century. These underskirts were worn by women and were made of a variety of materials, such as horsehair or steel hoops, to give the skirt its shape. The invention of the crinoline made it easier for women to achieve the fashionable wide-skirted look without having to wear multiple layers of petticoats. This fashion statement was greatly influenced by the French Empress Eugénie, who was a trendsetter of her time. By 1856, manufacturers were producing crinolines in large quantities and at affordable prices, making it accessible to women of all classes.
Key Differences between Crinoline and Farthingale
- Crinoline is a hoop skirt made of light yet sturdy fabric, whereas a farthingale is a small structure made up of hoops attached to a frame that is worn underneath a skirt.
- Crinolines were popular in the 19th century, whereas farthingales were popular in the 16th and 17th centuries.
- Crinolines were worn to achieve a wide, bell-shaped silhouette, whereas farthingales were designed to give fullness to the skirt from the waist down.
Evolution of Crinolines
Crinolines continued to evolve in design, with fashion designers experimenting with different materials to create lighter, more comfortable hoop skirts. Whalebone and steel hoops were replaced with lighter materials such as cane and bamboo. The hoops were also made adjustable, allowing women to customize the width of their skirts. By the late 1850s, the hoop became wider, and the skirts became more exaggerated, measuring up to six feet in diameter at the bottom. This style was dubbed the “Crinoline Craze” and featured in various paintings and illustrations of the time.
Crinolines continued to be worn well into the 1860s and 1870s, but with a more modest silhouette. This was due to the emergence of the bustle, which replaced the crinoline as the fashion item of choice. The bustle gave the back of the skirt more fullness and width, while the front fell straight, creating a more natural silhouette.
Historical Overview of Crinoline
Below is a table summarizing the historical use of crinolines:
| Period | Description |
|---|---|
| Early 19th Century | Petticoats were worn to give fullness to skirts |
| mid-19th Century | Crinolines replaced multiple layers of petticoats |
| Late 19th Century | The bustle replaced the crinoline as the fashion item of choice |
As fashion evolves, crinolines remain an icon of the past, symbolizing a time when fashion was an important part of society and women were willing to go above and beyond to look their best.
Historical Use of Farthingales
The farthingale refers to a type of underskirt or hoop skirt that was popular in Europe and England during the 16th and 17th centuries. It was a crucial element in women’s dressing style during the Renaissance period and was used as a garment to create a more flattened look for women. The farthingale was worn beneath dresses and gowns to give them both fullness and structure.
- The first recorded use of farthingale was during the medieval period. Back then, it was referred to as a “verdingale” and was used to stiffen the skirt of a dress.
- The farthingale became popular in the 16th century during the Renaissance when fashion focused on creating an idealized silhouette for women.
- By the 17th century, the use of farthingales evolved into a more dramatic fashion statement. They became larger and more elaborate, making it difficult for women to move around with ease.
The use of farthingales became a symbol of wealth and status during this period. The larger and more elaborate the farthingale, the greater the prestige of the woman wearing it. Farthingales were made from a variety of materials such as whalebone, cane, and steel hoops. They were also decorated with ribbons, lace, and intricate embroidery.
The following table shows the evolution of farthingales during the Renaissance period:
| Century | Style | Description |
|---|---|---|
| 16th Century | Wheel or Drum | A cone or bell-shaped crinoline made of cane or whalebone |
| 17th Century | French or Great | A wider and flatter version of the farthingale that was more decorative and less practical |
In conclusion, the farthingale played a crucial role in women’s fashion during the Renaissance period. It evolved from a simple stiffening device to a symbol of wealth and status. The farthingale may have fallen out of fashion today, but its influence can still be seen in modern clothing with the introduction of modern crinolines and petticoats.
Construction of Crinolines
Crinolines were first introduced in the mid-19th century and were worn by women underneath their skirts to create a voluminous shape. While the basic concept of a crinoline remained the same, the construction of these hoop skirts went through many changes over time.
- Boned Crinolines: The earliest crinolines were made with rows of whalebone sewn onto a fabric base. These whalebones were flexible enough to allow movement and were strong enough to hold the shape of the skirt. However, these crinolines were heavy, uncomfortable, and could be damaged easily.
- Steel Cage Crinolines: In the 1850s, steel cages replaced whalebone to create lighter and more durable crinolines. These cages were made by bending steel wires into a series of hoops, which were then connected by vertical tapes. These tapes were usually made of a sturdy fabric like cotton or linen and were stitched onto a waistband. This design allowed the hoop skirt to sit comfortably on the wearer’s hips while maintaining its shape.
- Bustles: In the late 19th century, crinolines started to fall out of fashion, and the bustle became popular. A bustle was a padded or framework added to the back of a skirt to give the illusion of a fuller bottom. While not technically a crinoline, bustles were constructed similarly to a crinoline with the use of steel strips and flexible boning.
While the materials used to construct crinolines changed over time, the basic structure remained the same. Crinolines, and later bustles, were worn by women of all social classes and were considered an essential part of women’s fashion until the early 20th century.
| Component | Material |
|---|---|
| Hoops | Steel wire |
| Vertical Tapes | Cotton or Linen |
| Waistband | Sturdy fabric |
As you can see in the table above, the construction of a steel cage crinoline is relatively straightforward. However, it’s essential to note that the number of hoops could vary depending on the desired shape of the skirt. A more substantial crinoline would have more hoops, while a more modest one would have fewer hoops. Additionally, the vertical tapes would also need to be adjusted to ensure that the hoops were evenly spaced and distributed.
Construction of Farthingales
Farthingales were garments popular in the 16th and 17th centuries, worn under women’s skirts to create a bell-shaped silhouette. They were made by using a variety of materials, including whalebone, wire, or cane, to create a cage-like structure that would hold the skirt outwards. Unlike a crinoline, which is made from gathered or pleated fabric, a farthingale is more rigid and sturdy.
- The earliest farthingales were made from whalebone or cane, which were shaped into hoops and attached to a waistband. The hoops were then covered with layers of fabric or netting to create the desired shape.
- Later, farthingales began to use more flexible materials such as steel or wire, which were shaped into circular or oval hoops. These hoops were attached to a waistband with straps and then covered with fabric.
- In some regions, farthingales were made with a combination of materials, such as a wooden busk down the center and steel hoops around the sides. This combination created a much stiffer, more controlled shape that was particularly popular in Spain and Italy.
The shape and size of a farthingale depended on the occasion and the wearer’s status. Wealthy women might wear farthingales with numerous hoops and layers of fabric, while less wealthy women might have simpler designs with fewer hoops.
In addition to materials, the construction of a farthingale also involved careful attention to detail when it came to sizing and shaping the hoops. The fit had to be just right, as a poorly fitted farthingale could create an unflattering shape or even cause the wearer to trip and fall.
| Material | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| Whalebone/Cane | – Creates a softer, more natural shape – Lightweight and easy to wear – Less expensive than metal alternatives |
– Not as durable as metal alternatives – Can break or crack with extended wear |
| Steel/Wire | – Durable and long-lasting – Creates a stiffer, more controlled shape |
– Can be heavy and uncomfortable to wear – More expensive than whalebone or cane |
Overall, the construction of a farthingale required a significant amount of skill and attention to detail. With careful construction and the right materials, a farthingale could create the perfect silhouette and make a woman feel confident and beautiful.
Fashion Evolution of Crinolines
Crinolines and farthingales are two of the most popular undergarments worn by women during the 19th century. While they both serve the same purpose of adding volume and shape to a woman’s dress, there are distinct differences between the two. Let’s examine the fashion evolution of crinolines in more detail.
- The Early 19th Century: During the early 19th century, women’s dresses were designed with multiple petticoats. This made the dresses appear voluminous and gave them a bell shape. However, these petticoats made walking and moving around difficult. Crinolines were invented as a substitute for these petticoats. They were made of steel or whalebone hoops that were sewn into fabric bands. These hoops supported the weight of the dress, giving it a wider and fuller shape, without the need for multiple petticoats.
- The Mid 19th Century: Crinolines gained immense popularity during the mid-19th century. They were worn by women of all classes and were made in varying sizes. Women’s dresses during this time were designed with flat bodices and full skirts. The crinoline supported the fabric of these skirts, making them appear even fuller. It was during this time that crinolines became a fashion statement. They were decorated with ribbons, lace, and other ornamentation.
- The Late 19th Century: By the late 19th century, the crinoline had evolved. The shape of the hoop became narrower and flatter. This gave the dress a more natural silhouette, which was in stark contrast to the bell-shaped dresses of earlier years. Women’s fashion during this time also saw the introduction of the bustle. This was a padding worn at the back of the dress, which exaggerated the curve of a woman’s hips. The combination of a crinoline and a bustle made dresses appear form-fitting at the top and full at the bottom.
While the crinoline was immensely popular during the 19th century, it eventually fell out of fashion. Women’s dress styles became more sleek and streamlined, which relied less on bulky undergarments. However, the crinoline played a significant role in shaping women’s fashion during the 19th century.
Table:
| Period | Style | Important Features |
|---|---|---|
| Early 19th century | Bell-shaped dresses | Multiple petticoats |
| Mid 19th century | Flat bodices, full skirts | Steel or whalebone hoops sewn into fabric bands |
| Late 19th century | Form-fitting tops, full bottoms | Narrower, flatter hoops with bustles |
In conclusion, the crinoline played a vital role in shaping women’s fashion during the 19th century. It allowed women to wear fuller and voluminous dresses without the need for multiple petticoats. While it may have fallen out of style today, the crinoline remains a testament to the evolution of women’s fashion.
Fashion Evolution of Farthingales
The farthingale was a significant structure worn by women beneath their skirts during the 16th and 17th centuries. It was not entirely new fashion, as similar designs have been present in the Spanish Renaissance. However, it was the first time it gained widespread popularity and became a fashionable trend in Europe.
The farthingale originated from the Spanish garment called Verdugado, which means “little green one.” Similar to its predecessor, this wide and extended garment also had a circular hoop skirt. The major difference was that it was made of wooden or whalebone hoops attached to a waistband, making it sturdier and gave a more extended shape to the skirt.
- The first form of farthingale was introduced in the 16th century, which was known as “French farthingale.” It was a simple hoop skirt that had a bell-shaped silhouette.
- In the late 16th century, the “wheel farthingale” was introduced, which had a circular or wheel shape with hoops extending from the waistline.
- By the beginning of the 17th century, the “elliptical farthingale” emerged, which featured an elliptical or oblong shape with hoops extending to the back and sides of the dress.
Farthingales were adorned with sumptuous fabrics, including silk, lace, and embroidery. English and Spanish courts were the primary adopters of this fashion, and they often competed against each other on which court had the more elaborate farthingale styles.
The farthingale then evolved in the late 17th century into the pannier, which had a similar shape but used fewer hoops to achieve the extended silhouette. It eventually fell out of fashion with the emergence of the slim and straight dresses prevalent in the 18th century.
| Farthingale Style | Shape | Years Worn |
|---|---|---|
| French Farthingale | Bell-shaped | 16th century |
| Wheel Farthingale | Circular or wheel-shaped | Late 16th century |
| Elliptical Farthingale | Elliptical or oblong-shaped | Early 17th century |
Overall, the farthingale’s evolution showcased the dynamic fashion trends of the 16th and 17th centuries. Despite its outdated style, it remains an essential piece of fashion history that gave women a unique and bold look.
Materials Used in Crinolines and Farthingales
Crinolines and farthingales are two types of undergarments that have made their mark in history due to their remarkable design and construction. Despite the visual similarities between these two types of garments, there are quite a few differences that separate them. One of the most significant differences lies in the materials used to create these undergarments.
- Crinoline: A crinoline is a stiffened and structured petticoat that is designed to give dresses their iconic bell shape. The term “crinoline” actually comes from the French word crin, meaning horsehair, which was traditionally used as the stiffening material. However, modern crinolines are typically made with a lightweight plastic called nylon netting, which is much easier to work with and more affordable than horsehair.
- Farthingale: A farthingale is another type of underskirt that is designed to provide volume to a woman’s dress. Unlike crinolines, farthingales were typically worn during the 16th and 17th century. These undergarments were made of stiffened and shaped wires, which were woven together to form a rigid cage-like structure. Farthingales were also sometimes padded with wool or linen to help soften their shape and make them more comfortable to wear.
Although crinolines and farthingales were constructed from different materials, both were designed with the same purpose – to add fullness and volume to a woman’s dress. Whether it was through the use of horsehair or rigid wires, these innovative undergarments paved the way for fashion as we know it today.
What is the Difference Between a Crinoline and a Farthingale?
1. What is a crinoline?
A crinoline is a structured petticoat worn underneath a skirt to add volume, shape, and structure. It is usually made of hoops or stiffened fabric and became a popular fashion item in the mid-1800s.
2. What is a farthingale?
A farthingale is a type of underskirt or petticoat worn in the 16th and 17th centuries. It was made of a framework of whalebone, cane or wire and was extended out at the sides, giving skirts a wide, bell-shaped appearance.
3. What is the main difference between a crinoline and a farthingale?
The main difference between the two is the material used to create the structure. Crinolines use hoops or stiffened fabric, while farthingales use whalebone, cane, or wire.
4. Is a crinoline and a farthingale the same thing?
No, a crinoline and a farthingale are not the same thing. Though they serve a similar purpose, they were popular in different periods of history and use different materials.
5. Which one is still used today?
Crinolines have evolved to modern-day petticoats, while farthingales are no longer commonly used. However, they can still be seen in historical reenactments or period films and theatrical productions.
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